Curly Hair Care Products
Now, here’s the most valuable section on my entire site! Below is a list of the most common curl types and the right products to use with them.
This hair type is extremely coarse yet brittle. All products used should have an oil base to help soften, control and add definition. I have also found that plain organic virgin coconut oil is fantastic. Also castor oil is a favourite of my clients with extremely coarse hair. There is a wonderful company called Ostro Organics and all the oils are made by hand (order online only), and I would recommend that over all other brands as you can be sure there aren’t any weird unlisted preservatives or bleaching agents – both of those are terrible on your hair… Don’t be scared of the pricing on Rene Furterer’s Karite line, as it’s very pure and concentrated; you only need to use half as much to get twice the results. All curly hair types will benefit from regular Karite deep oil treatments. A wonderful line called As I Am was introduced to me in 2014 and I am excited to share it with you! It is only available through their website, but I promise you that you will absolutely love their lines. I just want to mention that as of May 2016, Redken’s All Soft line is NO LONGER my favourite professional line for African hair. They have changed their formula from an avocado oil to argan oil base…and by all accounts it’s no longer any good. How disappointing! If anyone knows any other great avocado based haircare line please contact me to let me know!
Bi-Racial or Mixed Race Hair
This hair type is completely different and unique to each person, and so it can be difficult to recommend products.
- I have a client of African/Caucasian background with absolutely straight hair…but his hair is brittle, dense and fine so I would recommend a strong moisturizing shampoo and a daily light conditioner.
- Another African/Caucasian client has very thick, straight hair but with a ton of body at the root, and although it sticks up when cut short like Asian hair it’s actually amazing to style and behaves very well (she uses various salon products and doesn’t have much trouble with her hair).
- I have a few clients of Asian/African background and their hair can be similar to those from India. One is Japanese/African and has a HUGE glorious Afro with strong shiny curls; she co-washes maybe once a week and occasionally flatirons her hair.
- Caucasian/Asian people often struggle with an ‘unmanageable’ wave with the toughness and thickness of Asian hair – for them I would recommend my Curly Cut and a moisturizing shampoo and conditioner followed by a light leave in conditioning oil based spray to soften (such as the All Soft one from Redken).
- African/Indian people sometimes find that their hair is completely different textures on different areas of the head. It’s best just to use a curl enhancing product such as Twin Curl by Schwarzkopf OSIS and diffuse dry in the problem areas, air drying the OK areas.
- The best product for bi-racial hair is BC Bonacure Moisture Kick Spray, as it softens while infusing the hair with a protein reconstructor. This is a great product for reactivating your curl products – use it daily even if you don’t wash your hair.
Fine, wavy hair
This is my hair type. It tends toward straight-and-frizzy in damp weather, and can flatten out if overconditioned. Fine, wavy hair is the most common hair type to cause stress and dissatisfaction. It’s easy to relax it fully straight with the right products and little heat styling. I can tell you right now that it’ll also curl right up with the right products, combined with one of my trademark curl-enhancing cuts! Bonacure’s Repair Rescue Sealed Ends will relax virtually all curl and leave a frizz free finish. A tiny bit of OSIS Thrill fibre gum in damp hair will also give a lovely soft and touchable wave without frizz. A light mousse such as Rene Furterer’s Tonucia Densifying Mousse will contract your hair and make it curly – just scrunch with your fingers as it air dries. Heavier mousses are great if you like firmer hold, but ensure that at the end of the day you comb your hair out from the ends, working to your roots to avoid snapping your hair off throughout the midlengths. Stay away from heavier curl creams, gels and pomades, as it’ll weight everything down and make it crispy or greasy. I also recently dicovered the Tigi Curlesque line, which has a fabulous, slightly gluey product called Curls Rock amplifier. It works well for fine wavy and fine curly types!
Coarse, wavy hair
Can also frizz but is only likely to do so near the scalp at the regrowth (up to 4”). The best way to control this is with a fibre gum, like OSIS Thrill, on damp hair. Use the tiniest amount and rub between your hands, then smooth only over the exposed surface of your hair. Do not work it through! After air drying it does help to use a light hairspray such as OSIS Elastic at the regrowth and parting to hold the style and avoid little curly frizzies to pop up. For a beautiful beachy curl try Bumble and Bumble’s Hair Undressing Creme and air dry, or diffuse dry for extra lift. This hair type responds well to oil-based products such as Schwarzkopf Oil Miracle. It doesn’t respond well to diffusing and tends to relax a little. The best way to get coarse, wavy hair to hold curl is to use a flatiron to curl it and smooth frizz at the same time.
Fine, curly hair
Fine curly hair is fun to work with, as it responds extremely well to all types of styling products. If the hair is also very soft, it may look very long when wet and spring up tightly when dry – because of this, inexperienced hairstylists often cut way too much off. I love to use OSIS Twin Curl on this type, because it’s very light and gentle, and it doesn’t have too much lift. Fine, curly hair is notorious for being easy to damage, and if flatironed too much it can look crispy and frizzy. If oil based products are used, go for lighter versions of the main product (Moroccan Oil and Schwarzkopf Oil Miracle both have ‘light’ versions) and only apply to the midlengths and ends, or your roots will look greasy. A great shampoo/conditioner combo for this type is Rene Furterer Carthame. I also find the Tigi Curlesque line works fantastic for this type.
Coarse, curly hair (includes Asian curly hair)
The most stubborn of all hair types. It can have a ‘haylike’ or ‘horselike’ texture, and responds best to heavy creams and oils. Kevin Murphy Luxury shampoo and conditioner is wonderful for this type, as is Kerastase Oleo-Relax and Rene Furterer Karite. Relaxing products such as OSIS Flatliner can also be of help with control and softness. I have also had a lot of success using coconut oil as a leave-in treatment on this type…it’s natural and smells wonderful! Coarse curly hair is the ideal candidate for a keratin smoothing treatment such as Keraspa. I recommend seeing Raigen if you want a keratin treatment.